Chlorine Generators

Using the salt in a pool's water, chlorine generators produce chlorine and automatically feed it back into the vessel. When one fails, however, accountability doesn't always lie with the chlorine generator itself. Before taking it apart and beginning a troubleshooting procedure, checking the pools water chemistry first may save you time and effort.

Some of the most common questions our service department fields from the chlorine generator customers concern low or no chlorine in the pool. To help, we must determine one of three things: does the chlorine generator work properly; does the customer use it correctly; or does the problem lie within the realm of the water chemistry?

Salt and Stabilizers

We approach the easiest angle first - water chemistry. First, make sure that the pool water's salinity lies between 2,500 and 3,000 parts per million by using a DS meter calibrated for NaCl, unless the generator already has a built-in meter. If the pool water has inadequate salt levels, the generator will not produce enough chlorine. Add salt to the pool water if this is the case.

If the salt levels prove adequate, check the chlorine stabilizer (cyanuric acid). Since chlorine generators produce un-stabilized chlorine and the water lacks the proper amount of cyanuric acid, you could lose approximately 90 percent of the chlorine produced within two hours, thanks to the sun's ultraviolet radiation. Note that the proper stabilizer level lies between 50 and 75 ppm. Always have your cyanuric acid test kit with you to perform this job.

Remember, low salt levels also will mean low stabilizer levels, which drop at a proportionate rate of 1.5 pounds of stabilizer per every 50 pounds of salt lost through dilution (backwashing, splash over, etc.) Anytime you have to add salt., add the proportionate amount of cyanuric acid to bring back the proper stabilizer level.

Nitrates and Phosphates

If your salt and stabilizer levels prove adequate, check for nitrates and phosphates. Both feed algae, which destroys chlorine. Service techs should carry phosphate and nitrate test kits with them to monitor these levels. The EPA standard for nitrates is 10 ppm, and although you can probably run a pool at 10 ppm, you'll have to run the chlorine generator system for longer durations and perhaps shock the pool with an outside source of chlorine.

Stay at less than 10 ppm, if you can. Meanwhile, phosphates should be kept at a level below 125 parts per billion. If you find the level of nitrates too high, dilute the water by draining some of the pool water (how much depends on the level of nitrates) and replacing it with fresh nitrate-free water or at least water with nitrate levels within EPA parameters. (The manufacturers of chlorine generators, as well as test kits, can aid you in determining how much water should be replaced in any given pool.) Always test the make-up water, whether it's well water or from a municipal source. If you find the phosphate level too high, use a phosphate-remover product readily available on the market. Add this to the pool, and it will drop the phosphates (appearing as a white granular substance) to the bottom of the pool. Vacuum it to your filter and backwash. In some cases, you may have phosphate, and nitrates present. Always check for both.

Special Problems

Once you validate the proper water chemistry, determine if the system runs long enough to produce sufficient chlorine for that pool. For example, a pool party with lots of kids will produce cloudy water - and a high demand for chlorine. So, if you know your customer plans to have a party, you should override the timer and run the chlorine generator at 100 percent the night before and raise the chlorine residual to a higher level in anticipation.

In the spring, cooler water means the system may run only six or seven hours a day. When a warm spell hits, increase the pump time. Going from spring to summer, you must anticipate a higher chlorine demand and increase the pump time accordingly. This can vary depending on the climate in the part of the country in which you live. In moderate climates, we usually ran the system for six hours daily and change to 12 hours when summer arrives.

Remember, the generator produces only a certain amount of chlorine per hour. Customers tend not to understand this part of the system and won't run the pump long enough to meet the pool's chlorine demands.

Sudden heavy rainfalls can result in a high chlorine demand for the pool. We recommend you run the system longer to maintain the level because excessive rain can change the pH level of water, as well as introduce unwanted organic matter into the pool. When it comes to chlorine generator complaints, always focus on the chemistry of the pool water first. If it passes muster, then turn your attention to the generator itself, troubleshooting it to find a mechanical or electrical problem.

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